Itinerary
6-Jul-16
Arrived Belgrade Airport at 12:00.
Hostel Hedonist 2 for check-in by Public Bus 72.
Lunch at Restaurant "?".
Join free walking tour at 16:00
Dinner at Restaurant "Secir Moj" at Skadarlija.
7-Jul-16
Went to Subotica.
To Novi Sad, check in Hostel Sova
EXIT Music Festival
8-Jul-16
Stayed in Moskva Hotel.
Joined Pub Crawl at 10pm.
9-Jul-16
Went to Saint Sava Temple and Saint Marco church.
Left Belgrade at 12:20.
Prepaid SIM Card
http://eurotribe.com/buy-a-sim-card-in-serbia/
http://prepaid-data-sim-card.wikia.com/wiki/Serbia
There are 3 companies, Telenor, mts and VIP.
I went to Telenor shop at the main pedestrian street Knez Mihailova, but informed the SIM card was sold out, and advised to go to the next door mobile service shop called "Sky". Bought mts SIM Card here for RSD 1000 for 2GB data.
VIP official shop later on I saw at the end of the pedestrian street not far from Tourist Info.
Money
RSD 1 is more or less JPY 1, so it was easy for me to convert.
EUR 1 = RSD 120
Many ATM everywhere, including in the airport.
A lot of money exchange too.
Credit card is also acceptable in many places.
Transportation
Belgrade Bus Card
http://www.belgradian.com/around-belgrade/public-transport/#busplus
Better to buy 1 day ticket at kiosks or tourist info for RSD 290, since the fee if paid on the bus is RSD 150.
Alternatively, buy a rechargeable card then to charge sum amount at kiosks. This way, one trip can cost RSD 89, instead of RSD 150.
From/To Airport
http://www.belgradian.com/travel-to-belgrade/plane/
Used public bus 72, departing just outside of Departure main door.
I was informed there is no shop to buy a bus card in the airport, so the only way is to pay directly on the bus (RSD 150).
Contrary to some information on the internet, the bus driver indeed gives change (maybe they will not give change if they don't have small change that time).
The bus stops (last stop) just opposite the Farmer's Market, after crossing the bridge of Sava River, just about 20-30 meters from Hostel Hedonist 2 (Hedonist Lounge).
The same bus 72 to airport, depart just in front of Hostel Hedonist 2 (note the arrival and departure stops are different, the departure stop is about 20-30 meters ahead).
Belgrade Train Station
Old classical yellow building.
It was quite old and not that big, and difficult to find English info.
I asked around to find the platform for my train to Novi Sad, but nobody spoke English, including the station Info lady.
Finally the tourist Info lady asked me to go to locket window 12, where it sold international train ticket, thank God, the staff here understood English, and informed the train departed from platform 8 (the platform indication on the poster was wrong, showing platform 5).
There were 2 or 3 cafes/ restaurants in the station, bought hamburger for the trip.
Outside the main door there was post office.
Belgrade - Novi Sad by Train
Duration about 2.5 hours (RSD 388). Quite full due to EXIT music festival.
The train is quite new and comfortable.
Novi Sad Train Station and Bus Station
Looks like more organized and civilized than Belgrade Main Station.
At least many staff understood English.
Bus station was just next to the train station.
The staff was helpful and efficient.
Novi Sad - Subotica by Bus
Took about 1.5 hours, quicker than train, but less comfortable.
The bus station at Subotica is located a bit far from city center, about 1km.
Subotica - Novi Sad by Train
Slower but cheaper and comfortable, compared to bus.
Also the train station is located in the city center, nearer than bus station.
RSD 384.
Novi Sad - Belgrade by Bus
Quicker, took about 1.5-2 hours, but less comfortable and more expensive.
The bus station in Belgrade is located about 100m from the train station.
RSD 610.
Novi Sad Bus
RSD 55 one ride.
There is bus route map which is convenient.
From train station to the city center (main square), take Bus 4, 4th stop.
To the Strand, take Bus 8 from city center, the last stop.
Belgrade Taxi
Our guide at the pub crawl advised us not to take taxi without "x" on the number plate, meaning those taxis are not registered.
Our guide liked "Pink Taxi", one of the taxi company.
The taxi goes by meter.
Accommodation
Hostel Hedonist 2 (Belgrade)
http://hostelhedonist2.com/
EUR 10 for 9 bed dorm at Booking.com
Got good reviews.
Hedonist 1 got also good reviews, but Hedonist 2 is more accessible.
They were quick in answering emails.
Good points:
Bus to Airport departs just in front of the Hostel (from Airport stops about 100 meters away). Coffee, tea were free. Location was good, not far from many attractions. Staffs were friendly and helpful. Emails were promptly replied.
Bad points:
Shower only 3 locations, one was damaged. Wifi was slow. Hot water maker, need cleaning inside, water not always available. People chatting in the lounge till after midnight, fortunately my room was at upstairs. Many people were sleeping on the sofa in the lobby, they didn't book beds or just drunk and overslept?
Hostel Sova (Novi Sad)
http://www.hostelsova.com/
EUR 24 (USD 29.48) for 10 bed dorm at Hostelbookers.com (expensive due to EXIT music fest).
They didn't reply my email.
Good points:
Great location, near the main square.
The owner lady was super friendly and helpful.
Fast wifi connection.
Bad points:
The facilities were a bit rundown.
Hotel Moskva (Belgrade)
http://www.hotelmoskva.rs/
EUR 76.5 (without breakfast EUR 72) at Booking.com
Surprised with the cheap price, since it should be a luxury classical hotel.
Landmark building as per guide books.
Good points:
Stay in famous, landmark, historical hotel with reasonable price. Great location nearby to attraction. Bus stop is in front of hotel. Bus 72 to airport is just about 200m away. Spa (Jacuzzi and sauna's) access. Good breakfast.
Bad points:
Room was small. Wifi was slow.
Activities and Sightseeing
BELGRADE
Belgrade Free Walking Tours
As per my research, there are three different companies conducted the tour as listed below.
All has similar names, so a bit confusing,
But I joined the first one, that departed at 4pm starting at Republic Square.
The pretty young guide named Nancy, doesn't really like common Serbian people, she is blonde with blue eyes.
Started at the Republic Square, then she took us to the nice street of Skadarlija, where famous old restaurants or kavanas are located.
Not only explaining about the places, she also taught us folkloric dance, gave us rakija, the famous traditional liquor, and gave us paper money at Yugoslavia time.
Passing Kalemegdan Citadel, the tour, lasted about 2 hours, finished at a place near Restaurant "?" behind the Orthodox Church.
Generally, it was a fun and informative tour, enjoyed it.
A quiz to read Cyrilic letters with presents were not fun though.
Belgrade Walking Tours
http://www.belgradewalkingtours.com/
Free walking tour at 10am and 4pm.
Pub crawl starts at 9pm from Republic Square.
Belgrade Free Tour
http://belgradefreetour.com/
Free walking tour at 10:30 and 14:00.
Pub crawl starts at 10pm from Republic Square.
Original Belgrade Free Walking Tour
http://free-belgrade-tours.com/
Free walking tour at 12:00
Pub crawl starts between 9-10pm from Red Bar on Skadarska Street.
Belgrade Pub Crawl
Since many said Belgrade has the best night life in Europe, though normally I don't join this kind of tour, in Belgrade I decided to join, with the hope to go to the floating clubs at Sava River.
Same companies with Free Walking Tour provide the pub crawl tour.
All the same, charges EUR 10, including only first shot drink at 4 locations.
Our guide was a pretty little Serbian girl named Jelena or Helen in English, if I remember it right.
We were 6 male tourists, from Brazil, US, Bolivia, 2 Dutch and me.
First stop was a place name translated as "Mustache", with cool interior design.
Then the next 2 stops were located opposite each other, just under the bridge Brankov Most.
Our last stop was the floating club. Located after crossing the bridge Brankov Most.
First we visit a club in the south side of the bridge, or left side of the bridge, since our guide said the clubs at this side were better and less mosquito.
The club we entered named "Free Styler", looked like uplevel club, with 2 go go girls.
The club was jam-packed but didn't really like it, the staff were not friendly.
Some of us said wanna try the other side of the bridge (north side, or left side of the bridge), so our guide took us to one club, looked more humble.
Our guide left us just before 2AM and advised us to take a taxi home.
NOVI SAD
EXIT Music Festival
http://www.exitfest.org/en
This year was 7-10 July 2016.
I only attended 1 day on 7 July.
Been all the time at the Main Stage, listening to Bastille and Ellie Goulding.
Then we moved to Dance Stage, which was extremely huge.
DINING
BELGRADE
Restaurant "?"
Had lunch here on my first day, as recommended by the hostel staff.
Maybe I ordered the wrong item, that I didn't feel it good.
Ordered Bean Soup, the taste was not that good, though acceptable.
Then the Serbian Salad, mixed of tomato, cucumber and minced onion. Especially didn't like the raw onion.
Below was as per our Walking Tour guide:
The restaurant was one of the oldest in the town, and the name was changed several time.
One of the owner named it "Kafana by the church", since it is indeed located opposite of the Orthodox Church, but the church didn't happy about it. So the owner took off the name display, replace it with a question mark "?", with the hope that some people would give him name idea. But nobody did, so the restaurant name keeps "?".
Bill:
Jelen toceno 0,5, RSD 219
Corbast Pasulj, RSD 599
Srpska Salata, RSD 250
Restaurant Šešir moj (This Old Hat of Mine)
http://www.belgradian.com/kafanas/sesir-moj/
One of the old kafana in Skadarska Street.
Had dinner with Elena after the walking tour.
Ordered punjena bela vesalica, pork stuffed with kajmak - clotted cream), as recommended in Lonely Planet, and happy about it.
The free appetizer, the spicy hot long paprica with garlic was tasty too.
Elena ordered Serbian soup (looked tasty), baked vegetables, and corn bread.
Paid RSD 2590 for both of us.
(the bill was in Cyrillic, can't read)
Restaurant Dva Jelena (Two Deers)
http://www.dvajelena.rs/en/
Just opposite Šešir moj on Skadarska Street.
Recommended by Arukikata and Wikitravel, saying it is the iconic Belgrade restaurant more than 180 years old.
Had dinner alone here.
The appetizer, the Serbian bread, spiced with chili powder and olive oil was yummy.
The recommended pork rib was good too, but too fatty for me.
From my bill:
- Svinjska rebra (the pork rib), RSD 840
- Couver (maybe the bread?), RSD 100
- Jelen pivo toceno 0.5 (the beer), RSD 220
plus 20%
Restaurants on Skadarska Street
Restaurants here are called kafana, equivalent to cafe in English.
Most of them are old, more than 100 years old.
Tried 2 places here, as reviewed above.
Our guide said the Restaurant Three Hat was good too.
Restaurant Manufaktura
On the same street with Restaurant "?".
Didn't have time to try, it looks good and recommended by the hostel staff.
NOVI SAD
Sokace New Way
Recommended by Arukikata.
Had breakfast here. Located across the main street of the main square complex.
Ordered what Serbian eats in breakfast and served bacon and egg...
Bill:
Bacon and eggs, RSD 210
Cedjena pomorandza 0.2l (sparkling water), RSD 195
Kecap 100g, RSD 54
Min.voda 0.25, RSD 105 --> forget what's this
plus 20%
Astal Saren or Atina
Just left side or behind the Cathedral in the main square.
Order the Red Pasta, while the taste was OK, but a bit too salty.
Bill:
Toceni lav 0.3, RSD 186
Crvena Pasta, RSD 678
plus 20%
Caribic Pizza
McDonald's style fast food restaurant selling pizza, located in the main square, near Hostel Sova.
Bill:
Pizza Cut, RSD 160
Salad Garden Iceberg, RSD 180 --> don't know what Iceberg is
Knjaz Milos, RSD 80 --> sparkling water
plus 20%
Others
Toilets
Public toilets are not free, charged about RSD 50.
Mineral Water
1 liter about RSD 60.
Useful links
Official Belgrade Tourist Office
http://www.tob.rs/
6-Jul-16
Arrived Belgrade Airport at 12:00.
Hostel Hedonist 2 for check-in by Public Bus 72.
Lunch at Restaurant "?".
Join free walking tour at 16:00
Dinner at Restaurant "Secir Moj" at Skadarlija.
7-Jul-16
Went to Subotica.
To Novi Sad, check in Hostel Sova
EXIT Music Festival
8-Jul-16
Stayed in Moskva Hotel.
Joined Pub Crawl at 10pm.
9-Jul-16
Went to Saint Sava Temple and Saint Marco church.
Left Belgrade at 12:20.
Prepaid SIM Card
http://eurotribe.com/buy-a-sim-card-in-serbia/
http://prepaid-data-sim-card.wikia.com/wiki/Serbia
There are 3 companies, Telenor, mts and VIP.
I went to Telenor shop at the main pedestrian street Knez Mihailova, but informed the SIM card was sold out, and advised to go to the next door mobile service shop called "Sky". Bought mts SIM Card here for RSD 1000 for 2GB data.
VIP official shop later on I saw at the end of the pedestrian street not far from Tourist Info.
Money
RSD 1 is more or less JPY 1, so it was easy for me to convert.
EUR 1 = RSD 120
Many ATM everywhere, including in the airport.
A lot of money exchange too.
Credit card is also acceptable in many places.
Transportation
Belgrade Bus Card
http://www.belgradian.com/around-belgrade/public-transport/#busplus
Better to buy 1 day ticket at kiosks or tourist info for RSD 290, since the fee if paid on the bus is RSD 150.
Alternatively, buy a rechargeable card then to charge sum amount at kiosks. This way, one trip can cost RSD 89, instead of RSD 150.
From/To Airport
http://www.belgradian.com/travel-to-belgrade/plane/
Used public bus 72, departing just outside of Departure main door.
I was informed there is no shop to buy a bus card in the airport, so the only way is to pay directly on the bus (RSD 150).
Contrary to some information on the internet, the bus driver indeed gives change (maybe they will not give change if they don't have small change that time).
The bus stops (last stop) just opposite the Farmer's Market, after crossing the bridge of Sava River, just about 20-30 meters from Hostel Hedonist 2 (Hedonist Lounge).
The same bus 72 to airport, depart just in front of Hostel Hedonist 2 (note the arrival and departure stops are different, the departure stop is about 20-30 meters ahead).
Belgrade Train Station
Old classical yellow building.
It was quite old and not that big, and difficult to find English info.
I asked around to find the platform for my train to Novi Sad, but nobody spoke English, including the station Info lady.
Finally the tourist Info lady asked me to go to locket window 12, where it sold international train ticket, thank God, the staff here understood English, and informed the train departed from platform 8 (the platform indication on the poster was wrong, showing platform 5).
There were 2 or 3 cafes/ restaurants in the station, bought hamburger for the trip.
Outside the main door there was post office.
Belgrade - Novi Sad by Train
Duration about 2.5 hours (RSD 388). Quite full due to EXIT music festival.
The train is quite new and comfortable.
Novi Sad Train Station and Bus Station
Looks like more organized and civilized than Belgrade Main Station.
At least many staff understood English.
Bus station was just next to the train station.
The staff was helpful and efficient.
Novi Sad - Subotica by Bus
Took about 1.5 hours, quicker than train, but less comfortable.
The bus station at Subotica is located a bit far from city center, about 1km.
Subotica - Novi Sad by Train
Slower but cheaper and comfortable, compared to bus.
Also the train station is located in the city center, nearer than bus station.
RSD 384.
Novi Sad - Belgrade by Bus
Quicker, took about 1.5-2 hours, but less comfortable and more expensive.
The bus station in Belgrade is located about 100m from the train station.
RSD 610.
Novi Sad Bus
RSD 55 one ride.
There is bus route map which is convenient.
From train station to the city center (main square), take Bus 4, 4th stop.
To the Strand, take Bus 8 from city center, the last stop.
Belgrade Taxi
Our guide at the pub crawl advised us not to take taxi without "x" on the number plate, meaning those taxis are not registered.
Our guide liked "Pink Taxi", one of the taxi company.
The taxi goes by meter.
Accommodation
Hostel Hedonist 2 (Belgrade)
http://hostelhedonist2.com/
EUR 10 for 9 bed dorm at Booking.com
Got good reviews.
Hedonist 1 got also good reviews, but Hedonist 2 is more accessible.
They were quick in answering emails.
Good points:
Bus to Airport departs just in front of the Hostel (from Airport stops about 100 meters away). Coffee, tea were free. Location was good, not far from many attractions. Staffs were friendly and helpful. Emails were promptly replied.
Bad points:
Shower only 3 locations, one was damaged. Wifi was slow. Hot water maker, need cleaning inside, water not always available. People chatting in the lounge till after midnight, fortunately my room was at upstairs. Many people were sleeping on the sofa in the lobby, they didn't book beds or just drunk and overslept?
Hostel Sova (Novi Sad)
http://www.hostelsova.com/
EUR 24 (USD 29.48) for 10 bed dorm at Hostelbookers.com (expensive due to EXIT music fest).
They didn't reply my email.
Good points:
Great location, near the main square.
The owner lady was super friendly and helpful.
Fast wifi connection.
Bad points:
The facilities were a bit rundown.
Hotel Moskva (Belgrade)
http://www.hotelmoskva.rs/
EUR 76.5 (without breakfast EUR 72) at Booking.com
Surprised with the cheap price, since it should be a luxury classical hotel.
Landmark building as per guide books.
Good points:
Stay in famous, landmark, historical hotel with reasonable price. Great location nearby to attraction. Bus stop is in front of hotel. Bus 72 to airport is just about 200m away. Spa (Jacuzzi and sauna's) access. Good breakfast.
Bad points:
Room was small. Wifi was slow.
Activities and Sightseeing
BELGRADE
Belgrade Free Walking Tours
As per my research, there are three different companies conducted the tour as listed below.
All has similar names, so a bit confusing,
But I joined the first one, that departed at 4pm starting at Republic Square.
The pretty young guide named Nancy, doesn't really like common Serbian people, she is blonde with blue eyes.
Started at the Republic Square, then she took us to the nice street of Skadarlija, where famous old restaurants or kavanas are located.
Not only explaining about the places, she also taught us folkloric dance, gave us rakija, the famous traditional liquor, and gave us paper money at Yugoslavia time.
Passing Kalemegdan Citadel, the tour, lasted about 2 hours, finished at a place near Restaurant "?" behind the Orthodox Church.
Generally, it was a fun and informative tour, enjoyed it.
A quiz to read Cyrilic letters with presents were not fun though.
Belgrade Walking Tours
http://www.belgradewalkingtours.com/
Free walking tour at 10am and 4pm.
Pub crawl starts at 9pm from Republic Square.
Belgrade Free Tour
http://belgradefreetour.com/
Free walking tour at 10:30 and 14:00.
Pub crawl starts at 10pm from Republic Square.
Original Belgrade Free Walking Tour
http://free-belgrade-tours.com/
Free walking tour at 12:00
Pub crawl starts between 9-10pm from Red Bar on Skadarska Street.
Belgrade Pub Crawl
Since many said Belgrade has the best night life in Europe, though normally I don't join this kind of tour, in Belgrade I decided to join, with the hope to go to the floating clubs at Sava River.
Same companies with Free Walking Tour provide the pub crawl tour.
All the same, charges EUR 10, including only first shot drink at 4 locations.
Our guide was a pretty little Serbian girl named Jelena or Helen in English, if I remember it right.
We were 6 male tourists, from Brazil, US, Bolivia, 2 Dutch and me.
First stop was a place name translated as "Mustache", with cool interior design.
Then the next 2 stops were located opposite each other, just under the bridge Brankov Most.
Our last stop was the floating club. Located after crossing the bridge Brankov Most.
First we visit a club in the south side of the bridge, or left side of the bridge, since our guide said the clubs at this side were better and less mosquito.
The club we entered named "Free Styler", looked like uplevel club, with 2 go go girls.
The club was jam-packed but didn't really like it, the staff were not friendly.
Some of us said wanna try the other side of the bridge (north side, or left side of the bridge), so our guide took us to one club, looked more humble.
Our guide left us just before 2AM and advised us to take a taxi home.
NOVI SAD
EXIT Music Festival
http://www.exitfest.org/en
This year was 7-10 July 2016.
I only attended 1 day on 7 July.
Been all the time at the Main Stage, listening to Bastille and Ellie Goulding.
Then we moved to Dance Stage, which was extremely huge.
DINING
BELGRADE
Restaurant "?"
Had lunch here on my first day, as recommended by the hostel staff.
Maybe I ordered the wrong item, that I didn't feel it good.
Ordered Bean Soup, the taste was not that good, though acceptable.
Then the Serbian Salad, mixed of tomato, cucumber and minced onion. Especially didn't like the raw onion.
Below was as per our Walking Tour guide:
The restaurant was one of the oldest in the town, and the name was changed several time.
One of the owner named it "Kafana by the church", since it is indeed located opposite of the Orthodox Church, but the church didn't happy about it. So the owner took off the name display, replace it with a question mark "?", with the hope that some people would give him name idea. But nobody did, so the restaurant name keeps "?".
Bill:
Jelen toceno 0,5, RSD 219
Corbast Pasulj, RSD 599
Srpska Salata, RSD 250
Restaurant Šešir moj (This Old Hat of Mine)
http://www.belgradian.com/kafanas/sesir-moj/
One of the old kafana in Skadarska Street.
Had dinner with Elena after the walking tour.
Ordered punjena bela vesalica, pork stuffed with kajmak - clotted cream), as recommended in Lonely Planet, and happy about it.
The free appetizer, the spicy hot long paprica with garlic was tasty too.
Elena ordered Serbian soup (looked tasty), baked vegetables, and corn bread.
Paid RSD 2590 for both of us.
(the bill was in Cyrillic, can't read)
Restaurant Dva Jelena (Two Deers)
http://www.dvajelena.rs/en/
Just opposite Šešir moj on Skadarska Street.
Recommended by Arukikata and Wikitravel, saying it is the iconic Belgrade restaurant more than 180 years old.
Had dinner alone here.
The appetizer, the Serbian bread, spiced with chili powder and olive oil was yummy.
The recommended pork rib was good too, but too fatty for me.
From my bill:
- Svinjska rebra (the pork rib), RSD 840
- Couver (maybe the bread?), RSD 100
- Jelen pivo toceno 0.5 (the beer), RSD 220
plus 20%
Restaurants on Skadarska Street
Restaurants here are called kafana, equivalent to cafe in English.
Most of them are old, more than 100 years old.
Tried 2 places here, as reviewed above.
Our guide said the Restaurant Three Hat was good too.
Restaurant Manufaktura
On the same street with Restaurant "?".
Didn't have time to try, it looks good and recommended by the hostel staff.
NOVI SAD
Sokace New Way
Recommended by Arukikata.
Had breakfast here. Located across the main street of the main square complex.
Ordered what Serbian eats in breakfast and served bacon and egg...
Bill:
Bacon and eggs, RSD 210
Cedjena pomorandza 0.2l (sparkling water), RSD 195
Kecap 100g, RSD 54
Min.voda 0.25, RSD 105 --> forget what's this
plus 20%
Astal Saren or Atina
Just left side or behind the Cathedral in the main square.
Order the Red Pasta, while the taste was OK, but a bit too salty.
Bill:
Toceni lav 0.3, RSD 186
Crvena Pasta, RSD 678
plus 20%
Caribic Pizza
McDonald's style fast food restaurant selling pizza, located in the main square, near Hostel Sova.
Bill:
Pizza Cut, RSD 160
Salad Garden Iceberg, RSD 180 --> don't know what Iceberg is
Knjaz Milos, RSD 80 --> sparkling water
plus 20%
Others
Toilets
Public toilets are not free, charged about RSD 50.
Mineral Water
1 liter about RSD 60.
Useful links
Official Belgrade Tourist Office
http://www.tob.rs/
No comments:
Post a Comment